Suwalki is a typical Polish provincial town with a population of 70,000. But the fact that it is also known outside Poland is not due to its peaceful atmosphere, but to its location, writes a report by the German public broadcaster ARD.
The Suwalki region is wedged between the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad to the northwest and Belarus to the east: NATO calls this area the "Suwalki Gap". From the generals' point of view, this is an extremely vulnerable and difficult-to-defend strip of land. Because at its narrowest point, this politically explosive passage between the two borders is only 65 kilometers. And that's exactly where Suwalki is located.
If Russian and Belarusian soldiers attack from both sides of the pass, they could cut off the Baltic countries' access to Poland, and from there to the rest of NATO territory. In such a situation, they could even occupy part of Poland, the German publication points out.
"We are in NATO, we are protected"
At the weekly market in Suwalki, people get irritated when asked about their mood and whether they are afraid of such a scenario. "No, why should we be afraid? You see that drones are falling in other places in Poland," some say. And others repeat: "We are in NATO. We are protected".
An elderly man adds that he regularly sees American "Apache" helicopters in the air, and that gives him security". The locals rely mostly on the Americans and their bases in Poland and the Baltic states. As well as on themselves, the publication adds.
“Fear is the wrong signal“, says Jacek Niedzwiedzki, a member of the Polish Sejm, whose constituency is in Suwalki. “We here are aware of the danger, it is in our blood. We have lived with these neighbors all our lives. That is why we do not complain, it does not lead to anything. We arm ourselves.“
Strengthened defense
Poland invests almost 5% of its gross domestic product in defense. This is also visible around Suwalki. The border with Belarus is fortified with a high metal fence and other high-tech facilities. And the one with Kaliningrad is currently secured for the most part with anti-tank installations, high fences and minefields.
In the summer, Poland withdrew from the Anti-Personnel Mine Ban Treaty in order to mine its borders to the north and east in case of an emergency. So far, only about 20 kilometers of the new border defense with Kaliningrad have been completed, but the implementation of the plan continues, ARD specifies.
Money has also been allocated for civil defense. That is why Joanna Ras, mayor of the small municipality of Sejny in the Suwałki region, right next to the border with Belarus, is buying water tanks, emergency generators, and creating food supplies. If the infrastructure is damaged, the municipal administration will have to supply 4,000 people.
Ras has just signed contracts for a new large warehouse and new water tanks. "There is a saying: if you want peace, prepare for war. I think such things should be done calmly, without causing panic. We should not give in to all the threatening propaganda. People know that I will take care of them," she told ARD.
The mayor considers it unlikely that the Russians will attack Suwalki. According to her, this is not the most dangerous place in Poland, but rather the best protected. "There is no other place where there are so many soldiers as here, on the border," she assures.
There are no investors, no tourists
As part of a program for the development of structurally weak regions, the municipality of Sejny has received funds to build a modern industrial zone: communications have been laid over a large area, access roads have been asphalted, and street lighting has been installed. By the end of the year, companies that want to build something with big tax breaks must also be found, otherwise the municipality will have to pay back the money. But the site is currently empty. Nearby, in another subsidized area of the regional center Suwałki, there are several investors. But no one dares to move to Sejny, which is even closer to the border.
Things are not going well with tourism either. Agriculture is the main livelihood in the area, and some farms have started offering rooms for accommodation. But since Russia invaded Ukraine, fewer and fewer families have come to spend their holidays here. “They read something about the area, come across the name “Suwałki Pass“ and they are shocked,” the mayor told ARD.